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La durée de 00:12:21 secondes et le titre Problème minuterie escalier – Comment bloquer une minuterie en panne ? sont à prendre en compte, ainsi que les informations de l’auteur et la description qui suit :« Vous avez un problème sur minuterie escalier ? Dans cette vidéo, je vais vous montrer les étapes à suivre pour rechercher d’où vient le problème sur une minuterie cage d’escalier. Si, vous avez une panne électrique sur une minuterie qui ne s’éteint plus ou vous voulez savoir comment bloquer une minuterie en panne, vous trouverez dans la vidéo les étapes à prendre en compte.

Que ce soit une panne sur les boutons poussoirs, tester la minuterie, etc. Je vous montre étape par étape les démarches à suivre.

/ CHAPITRE /

00:00 – Problème minuterie escalier – Comment bloquer une minuterie en panne.
01:27 – 1er cas, panne sur l’interrupteur différentiel.
02:16 – 2ème cas, panne sur un disjoncteur, court-circuit sur la minuterie.
4:43 – 3ème cas, problème sur la minuterie.
8:26 – 4ème cas, Panne sur les boutons poussoirs.
10:51 – 5ème cas, cas de panne sur les lampes escalier.

/ Matériels /

– Minuterie : https://amzn.to/3r0ksmK
– Peigne d’alimentation verticale 2 à 4 rangées: https://amzn.to/3pkJBcw
– Peigne horizontale 13 modules : https://amzn.to/3EkI6PJ
– Connecteur : https://amzn.to/3H6rZXG
– Sch – Disjoncteurs : https://amzn.to/3zCl9Xi
– Lg – Disjoncteurs : https://amzn.to/3Ft4Zly
– Ab – Disjoncteurs : https://amzn.to/3qmU6vf
– Hag – Disjoncteurs : https://amzn.to/3mnik75
– Boite de dérivation encastrable : https://amzn.to/3zEQ9X0
– Boite de dérivation étanche : https://amzn.to/3qXL343
– Poussoir lumineux IP55 : https://amzn.to/3zzd1Hc
– Poussoir : https://amzn.to/3q6Jxxs
– Poussoir lumineux encastrable : https://amzn.to/3F7g7U6

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▬▬▬ Vidéos tutos électricité ▬▬▬

Éclairage escalier – Installation d’une minuterie pour un éclairage d’escalier : https://youtu.be/cM2TcSrJZ8U
Comment installer un tableau secondaire : https://youtu.be/yawpt4qGTUQ
Branchement d’un contacteur jour/nuit : https://youtu.be/niNKDeIQftY
Branchement d’un contacteur jour/nuit avec une horloge : https://youtu.be/niNKDeIQftY
Panne électrique sur un télérupteur : https://youtu.be/k002ECBJgys
Disjoncteur qui saute : https://youtu.be/VYeqRHSlUns
Panne interrupteur différentiel : https://youtu.be/0HQdE5KrF0E

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► Pince à dénuder auto https://bit.ly/3vKWzRI
► Coupe-câbles https://bit.ly/3tzgmBZ
► Wago https://tidd.ly/3cJWt4k
► Boite de dérivation IP55 étanche https://tidd.ly/2R9sMCS

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► Recherche de panne électrique – Disjoncteur différentiel

► Disjoncteur tetra – triphasé – 1 pôle + neutre – 2 Pôles – DIFFÉRENCE

►Danger électrique – Contact direct et indirect – Électricité

► Panne de courant – défaut d’isolement ou court circuit ?

► Interrupteur différentiel et disjoncteur différentiel – Différence

► Interrupteur différentiel norme – déclenchement – 8 circuits

►Disjoncteur différentiel – Rôle, fonctionnement, calibre

► Quel différentiel choisir – Calibre et Type du différentiel

#eclairageescalierpanne #minuterie #panneminuterie ».

Cette plateforme de streaming favorise la diffusion et la découverte de vidéos inspirantes, tout en assurant une navigation sécurisée et respectueuse de la vie privée.

Problèmes d’éclairage public : un enjeu crucial pour les collectivités

Un soutien aux collectivités pour une meilleure gestion des services publics

AppliJeSignale présente de nombreux avantages pour les collectivités. En permettant une intervention rapide, il aide à limiter les dangers associés à un éclairage défaillant. L’outil permet aussi d’optimiser les coûts en facilitant les diagnostics et les interventions. De plus, il favorise l’implication des citoyens, qui peuvent signaler directement les pannes et participer activement à l’amélioration de leur cadre de vie.

Réactivez rapidement l’éclairage public avec AppliJeSignale

En réponse à ces enjeux, il est crucial de disposer d’une méthode de signalement fluide et rapide. AppliJeSignale offre une solution simple et pratique pour signaler les pannes d’éclairage public, sans nécessiter de téléchargement ni inscription.

Comprendre le fonctionnement d’AppliJeSignale

AppliJeSignale rend la gestion des pannes facile et rapide. Il n’est pas nécessaire de télécharger une application ou de s’inscrire. Connectez-vous au site via votre smartphone ou votre ordinateur, signalez une panne, puis suivez son traitement en temps réel grâce au suivi transparent de votre signalement.

Quand l’éclairage public fait défaut : quelles répercussions ?

Les pannes d’éclairage public ont de nombreuses répercussions, telles qu’une augmentation des risques pour les piétons et les automobilistes, en particulier dans les zones fortement fréquentées ou proches des passages piétons. Elles nuisent aussi au cadre de vie en réduisant la sécurité perçue et en diminuant l’attractivité des espaces publics. Par ailleurs, elles génèrent des coûts supplémentaires pour les finances publiques, car les réparations tardives coûtent généralement plus cher que les interventions préventives. Enfin, ces pannes entraînent un gaspillage d’énergie, souvent en raison de l’obsolescence ou du mauvais entretien des équipements.

Pour un éclairage public plus efficace et éco-responsable

L’éclairage public doit évoluer pour répondre aux enjeux de durabilité et d’intelligence. En optant pour l’éclairage LED, les villes font un premier pas vers un système plus économique et durable. L’ajout de capteurs intelligents permet de moduler la luminosité selon l’utilisation des espaces publics, et les systèmes de gestion à distance assurent un suivi en temps réel de l’état du réseau d’éclairage. Ces évolutions permettent de mieux gérer les pannes et d’optimiser les coûts énergétiques, tout en réduisant l’impact environnemental. Grâce à AppliJeSignale, cette modernisation devient plus accessible pour toutes les collectivités. Aujourd’hui, l’éclairage public n’a plus rien à voir avec les lanternes à gaz du passé. À l’ère de l’électricité, certaines villes comme Paris maintiennent un éclairage continu pendant la nuit, tandis que d’autres préfèrent installer des dispositifs à minuterie et des lampes à éclairage ajustable pour réaliser des économies d’énergie. Par ailleurs, les normes de sécurité du code du travail régissent les installations d’éclairage urbain.

Pourquoi un bon éclairage public est crucial en ville

L’éclairage public assure une sécurité essentielle lors des déplacements nocturnes, tout en offrant un cadre de vie agréable. Cependant, les pannes d’éclairage sont fréquentes et peuvent avoir un impact négatif sur la sécurité et la gestion des espaces publics.

Ce lien vous permet de voir la vidéo sur Youtube :
la source: Cliquer ici

#Problème #minuterie #escalier #Comment #bloquer #une #minuterie #panne

Retranscription des paroles de la vidéo: Hello everybody !!! Today I will show you how to troubleshoot a timer!!! Before starting the video, if you have electrical failures, do not hesitate to go to the playlist to see the videos of the various electrical failures. Whether at the level of a differential switch, remote control switch, socket, circuit breaker. Lots of videos are tailored to your needs!! Previously, I showed you the wiring of a timer with effect, either 3-wire or 4-wire connection. I did not make you the editing without effect because I believe that this editing has become obsolete. Today we are going to see together how to detect an electrical fault on a modular timer. Regardless of the brand, the principle of troubleshooting is always the same. I want to make a small parenthesis before starting the video, because I had several relevant remarks telling me that my videos are too long. Indeed, the videos are a bit long and I will explain why. In electricity, it’s the details that make the difference and I want to show you these details so that you can fully understand how it works. For those who do not know the channel, in the description of each video that I publish, there is a chapter where you can directly click on the time to see the subject that interests you. In this video, I will show you the different electrical faults on a timer that controls a stairwell, hallway lighting or other equipment. We will see together: The fault on the differential switch. Breakdown on a circuit breaker. The failure on the timer. The failure on the push buttons. And finally, the breakdown on the lamps. First case, the fault on the differential switch. As I explained in previous videos, the fault on a differential switch is caused by two phenomena. Or, you have taken another neutral or phase from another differential switch and this creates a potential difference and causes the two differential switches to fall. Or it’s a current leak. That is, part of the phase wire that touches the earth wire or the phase wire that touches the metal frame of the equipment connected to earth. For more information on this, I invite you to watch the video called inter diff which jumps. Soon, I will make you a video which will also deal with a fault finding on a differential switch which jumps when you press a simple ignition switch, back and forth or push button. 2nd case, failure on a circuit breaker. For this second case, I’m just going to quickly scan, because I’ve already done a lot of videos that deal with the problem on a circuit breaker tripping. For more information, I invite you to watch the video called Circuit Breaker. I’ll put the link in the description. If the circuit breaker protecting your timer trips, there are two possibilities. Or it’s an electrical overload. That is to say, the current consumed by the loads is greater than the rating of the circuit breaker. Or it’s a short circuit. That is, phase and neutral are touching somewhere in the installation. To check if it is an overload, check the power of each lamp and add them. Generally, it is marked on the lamp. Then you do the following calculation. The total power of the lamps divided by the voltage 230 volts. If you are on the 230 volt network in your country. Example: if the total power of my lamps is 3000 watts. I do 3000 divided by 230 volts which gives me: 13 amps. And I compare this value I found with my protection circuit breaker. If my protection circuit breaker is 10 amps, it is normal that I have a tripping of my circuit breaker. What you need to pay attention to in this configuration is the maximum current that the timer contact can withstand. We will see later in the next step. To check if it is a short circuit. I will take a multimeter and I will see if I have continuity between the lamp return and my neutral. To do this, I disconnect my lamp return from connection 4 of my timer. For this manipulation, it is preferable to set the circuit breaker to zero. If my multimeter beeps, it means there is a short circuit. My tube return and neutral are touching in some places. This implies that: when I press one of the buttons, it creates a short circuit and knocks out my circuit breaker. To be sure, remove all lamps and repeat the continuity test. If the multimeter still emits a sound, it means that one of the sockets of the lamps has a short circuit. It can also be the wires that are damaged. If you have an indicator light on the pusher, the short circuit can come from there as well. 3rd case, problem on the timer. From this third case, I will risk repeating myself in relation to the cases of failures on the pushers and the lighting. If it is the timer that is the problem, there may be several cases of failures. Either, the intensity of all the lamps exceeds the maximum intensity that the timer can support. This means that the timer components have overheated and exhibited irreversible damage. In this case, the timer must be changed. It may just be a tightening issue as well. But also a wiring problem. To check all this! For the problem of tightenings, I check all the tightenings of my connections which are on the timer. The tightening of my neutral wire which goes to A2, the phase wire which goes to A1, my push button return and my lamp return. For the wiring problem, I check my wiring against the diagram on the side of my timer. And well check if I am on the 3-wire connection or 4-wire connection. To see if it’s my timer that’s out of order, I put the wire from my push button return and the wire from my lamp return directly together. As on my installation, here, I will put the wire which is connected to connection B, my black wire which is my push-button return directly with the wire which is on connection 4, my purple wire which is my lamp return. Now I’m going to turn my circuit breaker ON. If my circuit breaker trips right away, I isolate the two wires I just connected together. I raise my circuit breaker. If my circuit breaker trips. This means that it is my timer that has a short circuit. Which means it’s out of order. Why ? Because, at present, my circuit breaker feeds only my timer since I isolated my lamps and my push buttons. To confirm that it is the timer that is out of order, I will do two manipulations. First manipulation I’m going to do: I lower my circuit breaker. I’m going to disconnect the wire that goes to A1 or A2, whatever. I will put a wago. I raise my circuit breaker. If my circuit breaker stays ON, that confirms the timer is the problem. The second manipulation that I will do: My phase wire that powers my isolated timer, I will now connect the wire that comes from the push button return and my lamp return together. I raise my branch circuit breaker. Now I press one of my push buttons. By keeping the push button pressed, if my lamps light up, this confirms that it is my timer which is out of service. Now I will explain in which case the timer can be deactivated. As I mentioned before, the timer can be out of order due to too high a load which has overheated the timer contact. Let me explain, here you have this contact which allows you to operate the lights. This contact can withstand a maximum current of 16 Amps. If the maximum intensity of your lamps exceeds these 16 amps, the contact will heat up and risk being damaged. This manipulation is valid if I put a circuit breaker of 20 Amps or more to protect my circuit. If I have a 10 Amp or 16 Amp circuit breaker , my circuit breaker will trip. Small information, a push button which remains blocked, can also damage your timer. You have to pay attention to this detail, because I find that many people block the push button to have the light on longer ! 4th case, failure of the push buttons. In the event that it is the failure on the push buttons, I will show you two simple manipulations to carry out. First manipulation: Circuit breaker down, I disconnect the wire which is my return push button on B, and I put the timer into forced operation by putting my selector down on the light position which is here. Now I raise my circuit breaker. If I notice that my lamps light up, it means that one of my push buttons is out of order. Also maybe, the wire that is my push back doesn’t come on all my push rods. The solution is to check the connections on all my push buttons. It is also possible that one of my pushers remains blocked when pressed or seized up. This possibility should also be checked. For more information on this, I invite you to watch the video called: how to find an electrical fault on a remote switch? For the second manipulation: If you have another push button or a switch at hand, you can perform this manipulation. Circuit breaker down, I disconnect the push return wire. I disconnect the phase wire which comes directly on the L of my pushers. I take another push button and two pieces of wire. The phase, I put it directly under my circuit breaker. The return of my push button, I put it directly on the B. I raise my circuit breaker. I press my push button, if I see no anomaly, it means that one of my push buttons has a problem. If I have only one switch to do this manipulation, I do exactly the same wiring. On the other hand, to do the test, when I put my switch to ON, I immediately put it back to Off to simulate a push button. Because I just have to send an impulse to order my timer to activate the coil. In case I have illuminated pushbuttons, what to be careful of is that a small detail can make a fault very complicated to find. Let me explain, if you find that it is the push buttons that present a problem, a tripping of the circuit breaker for example. Disconnect the power supply from the indicator which is in the push buttons before carrying out any troubleshooting. It may happen that it is the indicator light that presents and a problem and causes a short circuit for example. 5th case, case of failure on the lamps. If it is one of your lamps that has a problem, I will show you two manipulations. First manipulation: I disconnect my push return wire and I put the selector which is here in manual operation. I raise my circuit breaker. If my lamps do not light up, this means that it is the wire which is my lamp return which is not reaching my lamps or my neutral which is not reaching my lamps. On the simulation I just did, I disconnected my lamp return which is here and my lamps don’t light up. If I put it back in place, you will find that my lamps light up. On the other hand, if I have 2 lamps out of 3 which light up, it means that my last lamp, which does not light up which is out of service or perhaps the neutral wire or the lamp return has a poor tightening. You can check the connections in the junction box but also on the lamp connection socket. Second manipulation: By putting on manual operation, with a multimeter I check for the presence of voltage. To do this, I raise my circuit breaker. I check the voltage between: the neutral and the connection of my lamp return . If I don’t have 230 volts, that means the timer is out of service. If I have 230 volts, it means that the problem comes from the lamp return wire or the neutral. I hope you enjoyed this little tutorial!!! See you next Saturday for a new video. Bye !! .

Déroulement de la vidéo:

0.0 Hello everybody !!! Today I will show you how to
3.54 troubleshoot a timer!!! Before starting the video, if you have electrical failures,
7.5 do not hesitate to go to the playlist to see the videos of the various
10.83 electrical failures. Whether at the level of a differential switch, remote control switch, socket,
16.08 circuit breaker. Lots of videos are tailored to your needs!! Previously, I showed you
21.12 the wiring of a timer with effect, either 3-wire or 4-wire connection. I did not
27.63 make you the editing without effect because I believe that this editing has become obsolete. Today we are
32.37 going to see together how to detect an electrical fault on a modular timer. Regardless of
37.35 the brand, the principle of troubleshooting is always the same. I want to make a small
41.7 parenthesis before starting the video, because I had several relevant remarks telling me
46.26 that my videos are too long. Indeed, the videos are a bit long and I will
51.06 explain why. In electricity, it’s the details that make the difference and I want to show
56.04 you these details so that you can fully understand how it works. For those who
60.45 do not know the channel, in the description of each video that I publish, there is a chapter
65.28 where you can directly click on the time to see the subject that interests you. In this
70.17 video, I will show you the different electrical faults on a timer that controls a
75.12 stairwell, hallway lighting or other equipment. We will see together: The
80.04 fault on the differential switch. Breakdown on a circuit breaker. The failure on the
84.27 timer. The failure on the push buttons. And finally, the breakdown on the lamps. First case,
89.37 the fault on the differential switch. As I explained in previous videos,
93.57 the fault on a differential switch is caused by two phenomena. Or, you have taken
98.79 another neutral or phase from another differential switch and this creates a potential
103.95 difference and causes the two differential switches to fall. Or it’s a current leak.
109.38 That is, part of the phase wire that touches the earth wire or the phase wire that touches the
115.8 metal frame of the equipment connected to earth. For more information on this, I
120.6 invite you to watch the video called inter diff which jumps. Soon, I will make you a video
125.88 which will also deal with a fault finding on a differential switch which jumps when you
131.4 press a simple ignition switch, back and forth or push button. 2nd case,
136.62 failure on a circuit breaker. For this second case, I’m just going to quickly scan,
140.61 because I’ve already done a lot of videos that deal with the problem on a circuit breaker tripping. For
145.98 more information, I invite you to watch the video called Circuit Breaker.
150.6 I’ll put the link in the description. If the circuit breaker protecting your timer trips,
156.15 there are two possibilities. Or it’s an electrical overload. That is to say,
160.77 the current consumed by the loads is greater than the rating of the circuit breaker. Or it’s
167.13 a short circuit. That is, phase and neutral are touching somewhere in the installation.
172.02 To check if it is an overload, check the power of each lamp and add them.
178.02 Generally, it is marked on the lamp. Then you do the following calculation. The total power of
183.9 the lamps divided by the voltage 230 volts. If you are on the 230 volt network in your
191.19 country. Example: if the total power of my lamps is 3000 watts. I do 3000 divided
197.61 by 230 volts which gives me: 13 amps. And I compare this value I found with
205.98 my protection circuit breaker. If my protection circuit breaker is 10 amps, it is normal that
211.83 I have a tripping of my circuit breaker. What you need to pay attention to in this configuration
215.67 is the maximum current that the timer contact can withstand. We will see later
221.49 in the next step. To check if it is a short circuit. I will take a multimeter
226.59 and I will see if I have continuity between the lamp return and my neutral. To do this,
232.89 I disconnect my lamp return from connection 4 of my timer. For this manipulation, it
239.19 is preferable to set the circuit breaker to zero. If my multimeter beeps, it means there
248.97 is a short circuit. My tube return and neutral are touching in some places. This implies that: when
255.36 I press one of the buttons, it creates a short circuit and knocks out my circuit breaker. To
261.39 be sure, remove all lamps and repeat the continuity test. If the multimeter still emits
267.66 a sound, it means that one of the sockets of the lamps has a short circuit. It can
273.63 also be the wires that are damaged. If you have an indicator light on the pusher,
278.97 the short circuit can come from there as well. 3rd case, problem on the timer. From
285.66 this third case, I will risk repeating myself in relation to the cases of failures on the pushers
290.4 and the lighting. If it is the timer that is the problem, there may be several cases of failures.
295.95 Either, the intensity of all the lamps exceeds the maximum intensity that the timer can
301.83 support. This means that the timer components have overheated and exhibited
307.83 irreversible damage. In this case, the timer must be changed. It may
313.26 just be a tightening issue as well. But also a wiring problem. To check all
318.66 this! For the problem of tightenings, I check all the tightenings of my connections which are on
324.36 the timer. The tightening of my neutral wire which goes to A2, the phase wire which goes to A1,
330.81 my push button return and my lamp return. For the wiring problem, I check my wiring
337.38 against the diagram on the side of my timer. And well check if I am on
344.43 the 3-wire connection or 4-wire connection. To see if it’s my timer that’s out of order,
350.34 I put the wire from my push button return and the wire from my lamp return directly together. As on
356.88 my installation, here, I will put the wire which is connected to connection B, my black wire which
363.024 is my push-button return directly with the wire which is on connection 4, my purple wire which
369.27 is my lamp return. Now I’m going to turn my circuit breaker ON. If my circuit breaker
376.05 trips right away, I isolate the two wires I just connected together. I raise my circuit breaker. If
382.915 my circuit breaker trips. This means that it is my timer that has a short circuit. Which
388.99 means it’s out of order. Why ? Because, at present, my circuit breaker feeds only
394.99 my timer since I isolated my lamps and my push buttons. To confirm that it
400.87 is the timer that is out of order, I will do two manipulations. First manipulation
405.43 I’m going to do: I lower my circuit breaker. I’m going to disconnect the wire that goes to A1 or
411.4 A2, whatever. I will put a wago. I raise my circuit breaker. If my circuit breaker stays ON,
420.67 that confirms the timer is the problem. The second manipulation that I will
425.83 do: My phase wire that powers my isolated timer, I will now connect the wire that comes
432.34 from the push button return and my lamp return together. I raise my branch circuit breaker. Now
438.55 I press one of my push buttons. By keeping the push button pressed,
443.17 if my lamps light up, this confirms that it is my timer which is out of service.
448.6 Now I will explain in which case the timer can be deactivated. As I
453.79 mentioned before, the timer can be out of order due to too high a load which
459.22 has overheated the timer contact. Let me explain, here you have this contact which
464.68 allows you to operate the lights. This contact can withstand a maximum current of 16
470.23 Amps. If the maximum intensity of your lamps exceeds these 16 amps, the contact will heat up
476.68 and risk being damaged. This manipulation is valid if I put a circuit breaker of 20 Amps
483.19 or more to protect my circuit. If I have a 10 Amp or 16 Amp circuit breaker ,
489.46 my circuit breaker will trip. Small information, a push button which remains blocked,
496.12 can also damage your timer. You have to pay attention to this detail,
500.62 because I find that many people block the push button to have the light on longer
506.05 ! 4th case, failure of the push buttons. In the event that it is the failure
510.79 on the push buttons, I will show you two simple manipulations to carry out. First
516.64 manipulation: Circuit breaker down, I disconnect the wire which is my return push button on B, and
522.85 I put the timer into forced operation by putting my selector down on the light position which
529.15 is here. Now I raise my circuit breaker. If I notice that my lamps light up, it
536.23 means that one of my push buttons is out of order. Also maybe, the wire that is my
540.88 push back doesn’t come on all my push rods. The solution is to check the connections on all
547.15 my push buttons. It is also possible that one of my pushers remains blocked when pressed or seized up.
553.9 This possibility should also be checked. For more information on this, I invite you to watch
559.09 the video called: how to find an electrical fault on a remote switch? For the second
564.43 manipulation: If you have another push button or a switch at hand, you
569.02 can perform this manipulation. Circuit breaker down, I disconnect the push return wire. I
574.81 disconnect the phase wire which comes directly on the L of my pushers. I take another push
581.08 button and two pieces of wire. The phase, I put it directly under my circuit breaker. The return
587.14 of my push button, I put it directly on the B. I raise my circuit breaker. I press
593.17 my push button, if I see no anomaly, it means that one of my push buttons
600.01 has a problem. If I have only one switch to do this manipulation, I do exactly
605.53 the same wiring. On the other hand, to do the test, when I put my switch to ON,
610.96 I immediately put it back to Off to simulate a push button. Because I just have to send an
617.38 impulse to order my timer to activate the coil. In case I have
624.43 illuminated pushbuttons, what to be careful of is that a small detail can
629.53 make a fault very complicated to find. Let me explain, if you find that it is the
634.72 push buttons that present a problem, a tripping of the circuit breaker for example.
639.96 Disconnect the power supply from the indicator which is in the push buttons before carrying out any
644.28 troubleshooting. It may happen that it is the indicator light that presents and a problem and causes
648.96 a short circuit for example. 5th case, case of failure on the lamps. If it is one of your lamps
654.84 that has a problem, I will show you two manipulations. First manipulation: I
660.15 disconnect my push return wire and I put the selector which is here in manual operation. I raise
668.1 my circuit breaker. If my lamps do not light up, this means that it is the wire which is my
673.59 lamp return which is not reaching my lamps or my neutral which is not reaching my lamps.
678.69 On the simulation I just did, I disconnected my lamp return which is here and
684.12 my lamps don’t light up. If I put it back in place, you will find that my lamps
690.87 light up. On the other hand, if I have 2 lamps out of 3 which light up, it means that
696.12 my last lamp, which does not light up which is out of service or perhaps the neutral wire or
700.98 the lamp return has a poor tightening. You can check the connections in the
705.72 junction box but also on the lamp connection socket. Second manipulation: By
711.27 putting on manual operation, with a multimeter I check for the presence of voltage. To do this,
716.55 I raise my circuit breaker. I check the voltage between: the neutral and the connection of my
722.88 lamp return . If I don’t have 230 volts, that means the timer is out of service.
729.48 If I have 230 volts, it means that the problem comes from the lamp return wire or the neutral. I hope
735.84 you enjoyed this little tutorial!!! See you next Saturday for a new video. Bye !!
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